2020 Harvest Update : Bordeaux Dry White Wines
The 2020 Harvest (les vendanges in French) has officially kicked off in Bordeaux! From dry whites, to reds, and then on to the sweet wines of Sauternes, join us as we take you into the vineyards and share with you what is expected to be another great harvest in Bordeaux.
Opalie de Château Coutet 2020 harvest has begun!
On our journey through the 2020 Bordeaux harvest, we begin with white wines as these are the first grapes to be picked. While many associate Bordeaux with red wine and the golden wines of Sauternes, the region also produces some excellent dry white wines.
Due to the warm growing season, harvest this year began a week or two earlier than usual as the grapes have ripened much faster. This is one of the earliest starts in recent times. A series of warm days can speed up harvest because ripening happens faster in hot weather. Cooler temperatures, on the other hand, can delay harvest. But ultimately, it’s the flavor profile of the grape that determines the picking date.
Regarding the early start of the Bordeaux harvest this year, Château Margaux states, “This exceptional precocity is partly explained by a particularly hot spring which saw flowering arrive about two weeks earlier than usual. The hot summer that followed allowed the grapes to acquire good maturity, prompting us to harvest earlier in order to maintain good acidity. Although it is still a little early to predict the quality, a vintage that is a little more opulent than in recent years seems to be emerging.”
“This exceptional precocity is partly explained by a particularly hot spring which saw flowering arrive about two weeks earlier than usual. The hot summer that followed allowed the grapes to acquire good maturity, prompting us to harvest earlier in order to maintain good acidity. Although it is still a little early to predict the quality, a vintage that is a little more opulent than in recent years seems to be emerging.”
2020 Harvest at Château Haut-Brion
So how much white wine is actually produced in Bordeaux?
Today, around 10% of all of the wine made in Bordeaux is white wine with 9% being dry white and the remaining 1% being the sweet white wines from Sauternes. As recently as fifty years ago, Bordeaux produced more white wine that it did red wine. Sémillon was the main grape varietal grown and white wine was produced in almost every one of the 54 appellations of Bordeaux.
So what happened?
The change from white to red really started back in 1956. In 1956 there was a devastating frost that destroyed a large portion of the vineyards on Bordeaux’s right and left banks. The frost was so severe, enormous portions of entire vineyards needed to be replanted as the vines had been killed off. As a result, château owners and winemakers began to reevaluate the makeup of their vineyard and decided to rip out and replace with varietals that they thought were more suited to the terroir - switching mainly to red grape varieties. The fact that red grape vines bud later than white ones, a factor that helps mitigate against an impact from frost, was an added benefit. Another factor that most likely came into play was the fact that they could sell red wines for more money and over a longer period of time which offered a strong financial incentive to make the change. This is why today white wine production in Bordeaux has declined and continues to do so. Just in the past decade, white wine production declined 1 percentage point.
What grapes varietals are used to produce a dry white Bordeaux?
Bordeaux white wines, both the sweet and dry, are generally made from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. These two grapes make up about 92% of vines used for producing white wines. Other varietals used include Muscadelle, Sauvignon Gris, Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche, and Chardonnay.
Source: CIVB, 2020
In order to be labelled as an AOC Bordeaux Blanc, a minimum of 25% Sauvignon Blanc must be included in the blend. This is not a problem for most estates as on average, close to 70% of the blend is usually Sauvignon Blanc. White wines that do not meet this requirement are labelled as Vin de France. There are two white wines made in the Médoc that are labelled as Vin de France including Château Palmer’s Vin Blanc de Palmer (a blend of Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris) and Château du Tertre’s Tertre Blanc (a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Gros Manseng).
Of all of the Sémillon grown in France, almost 62% is located in Bordeaux, most densely in Sauternes and Barsac where it accounts for more than 75% of the vines. The only place in Bordeaux where Sémillon is not found is in the Médoc. Sémillon is characteristically round and full-bodied, contributing apricot and honey aromas, and is recognized for its ability to age. It is usually used in a blend with Sauvignon Blanc and is rarely used at 100%. Château Sigalas Rabaud’s La Semillante dry wine is one example of a 100% Sémillon Bordeaux blanc.
One fifth of all Sauvignon Blanc grown in France is located in the Bordeaux region. In fact, Sauvignon Blanc originates from Bordeaux. It can be found all over Bordeaux, but is highly concentrated in Blaye, Pessac-Léognan and Entre-deux-Mers. Sauvignon Blanc typically gives wines the necessary acidity, along with mineral character and aromatic freshness. Its secret is the three notes forming its aromatic signature: citrus, boxwood, and fig leaves.
Muscadelle is the complementary variety in dry and sweet whites. It is characteristically very fragile, producing very aromatic wines that have moderate acidity, and are round and powerful. Its secret is its discreet, but appealing floral notes.
Sauvignon Gris is prized for its rounder, more apricot-style flavors and can be found in wines from Château Rouillac and Château Smith Haut Lafitte.
Sauvignon Blanc grapes
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millon grapes
Muscadelle grapes
Which Bordeaux appellations produce a dry white wine?
White wines can be made in any of the Bordeaux appellations. If certain conditions are met regarding types of grapes used, alcohol level, and sugar content, the wines can be labelled as AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) Bordeaux Blanc, otherwise they are labeled as Vin de France.
2020 Harvest at Château Haut-Brion
The most famous dry white Bordeaux wines come from the Graves and Pessac-Léognan appellations. These appellations are located just south of Bordeaux on the left bank. Jane Anson, in her new book ‘Inside Bordeaux’ states that “Pessac-Léognan is the single major Bordeaux appellation to make serious, age worthy dry whites.” The dry whites from Pessac-Léognan tend to be richer and rounder. About 20% of the wines from this appellation are white wines, with 79% of the white grapes grown here being Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Sémillon.
Château Haut-Brion, the only 1855 classified first growth not located in the Médoc, produces two dry white wines including one of the most famous dry white wines produced in Bordeaux - Château Haut-Brion Blanc, a blend of 52% Sémillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc. In AOC Graves, 32% of white grapes grown are Sauvignon Blanc, 61% Sémillon, 4% Muscadelle and 3% Sauvignon Gris.
“Pessac-Léognan is the single major Bordeaux appellation to make serious, age worthy dry whites.”
2020 Harvest at Château Margaux
In the Médoc, 13 of the 1855 classified growths produce a dry white wine, including a new one that only began in 2019 - Château Brane Cantenac. The others include Château Cantenac Brown, which produces 1,000 bottles per year of Alto de Cantenac Brown, Aile d’Argent from Château Mouton Rothschild, Pavillon Blanc from Château Margaux (100% Sauvignon Blanc; this is the largest producer of white wine in the Médoc), Blanc de Lynch Bages from Château Lynch Bages, Caillou Blanc from Château Talbot, Le Blanc du Château Prieure Lichine, Blanc de la Tour Carnet by Château Tour Carnet, Les Arums de Lagrange by Château Lagrange, and Cos d’Estournal Blanc by Château Cos d’Estournal. Two other chateau produce white wines that are bottled as Vin de France and not AOC Bordeaux because of the grapes varieties they use – Château du Tertre and Château Palmer. Château Lafite Rothschild made a dry white wine up until 1959.
2020 Harvest at Château d’Yquem
In Saint-Emilion, there is a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grown, bottled under AOC Bordeaux Blanc. There are also some plots of Chardonnay as well as Riesling. Some of the châteaux in Saint-Emilion that produce a white wine include Château Valandraud, Château Clos Dubreuil, Château Cheval Blanc, Château la Gaffelière, Château Fleur Cardinal, Château Fombrauge and Château Monbousquet. The white wine of Cheval Blanc has been made since 2014 and was originally made 100% from Sauvignon Blanc, but from the 2018 vintage a small amount of Sémillon is also included. Château la Gaffelière has planted Chardonnay on 0.5ha of limestone soils with the first vintage expected this year.
In recent years, there has been an increase in the production of dry white wines being made in the Sauternes appellation, which is well known for its sweet wines. Most of the top estates located in this appellation now produce a dry wine including Y d’Yquem (Château d’Yquem), S de Suduiraut (Château Suduiraut), G de Guiraud (Château Guiraud), Opalie at Château Coutet, and Semillante de Sigalas at Château Sigalas Rabaud. There is currently an ongoing discussion about creating a specific AOC for dry whites produced here, called Sauternes SEC, or allowing whites produced here to be bottled as AOC Graves instead of the current catch all of AOC Bordeaux Blanc.
Entre-deaux-Mers, both the name of a geographic area and also a white wine only AOC, is the largest white wine producing appellation in Bordeaux. Here you will generally find Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle, as well as Colombard, Merlot Blanc and Ugni Blanc. These wines tend to be fresh, early drinking fruity wines with high acidity.
The story behind the name “Aile d’Argent”
Wanting to reconnect with an old Medocan tradition, In the early 1980's Philippine de Rothschild decided to plant a few hectares of white grape vines at Château Mouton Rothschild, becoming one of only thirteen classified estates to produce a dry white wine. The wine produced from these vines is called 'Aile d’Argent,'
Below is the beautiful story of the origin of the name of this wine as told by Philippine herself:
“Aile d’Argent… Two unusual words that floated up from the depths of time, a link between the past and present, between my father Baron Philippe de Rothschild and myself. When I was a little girl, my father made up a fairy tale for me, the hero of which was a magic teapot. Its incredible adventures enchanted me and beguiled my childhood. The teapot was called Aile d’Argent, Silver Wing.
War broke out and my father was arrested. In prison, from memory, he wrote down the story, which he called Aile d’Argent la Magique (Magical Silver Wing), the title under which it was published by Gallimard in 1947.
Aile d’Argent… I am glad that the words which once inspired my dreams are taking on form and colour again.”
- Philippine de Rothschild
What vintages of white Bordeaux wines are the best?
Generally speaking, white wines from Bordeaux tend to shine in the years that the red wines don’t. Red vintages love hot and dry weather allowing the grapes to develop complexity and concentrate. White vintages struggle with the lack of water when it is dry, so tend to enjoy cooler temperatures. Over the last 10 years, 2013, 2016, and 2017 were great vintages for whites. 2016, which was a great vintage for both white and red wines, had an extremely dry summer, but didn’t have extreme temperatures. The evening were also cool, which gave the grapes time to relax and keep their acidity – which is key for white wines.
What is happening in the Bordeaux vineyards currently?
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
August 18: “Our early harvest began this morning with a careful masked team ready for action !”
Château Brane-Cantenac
August 21: "Ready Steady Go ! 2020 white is on its way."
Château Olivier
“Magnificent Sauvignon Blanc harvested on August 20”
Château Prieure Lichine
August 27: “We have started harvesting our white grapes yesterday under a lovely sun."
Château Malartic-Lagraviere
August 27: “Starting of the 2020 vintage! Look at those beauties, we need nothing more!"
Château Margaux
August 30: "We’ve started picking our Sauvignon Blancs this week under beautiful sunny skies. "
How can I learn more about Bordeaux white wines?
Learn more about Bordeaux's dry white wines by watching these two recent virtual tastings hosted by 67 Pall Mall. Jane Anson, a Bordeaux based wine writer and a correspondent for Decanter magazine, and Demetri Walters MW, a wine educator, share with us their knowledge of the least explore, yet exciting wines of Bordeaux.
White Bordeaux
The Great Dry Whites of Bordeaux
In this vinous jaunt through the vineyards of the region, taste delicious dry white wines from: a hitherto less well known region, an iconic sweet wine maker, two first growth producers, and a brace of top drawer Graves vineyards, where white has long been esteemed shoulder-to-shoulder with the red wines.
Bordeaux whites are among the least-explored and yet most exciting wines of the region – often made in tiny quantities, barrel-aged like the reds and equally capable of subtle, nuanced expression and of long ageing in bottle. This masterclass will be an exceptional opportunity to uncover the secrets behind these rare and sought-after wines.
When does harvest start for Bordeaux red wine grapes?
Red grapes are still maturing on the vine, with Merlot generally ripening earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest of these grapes could begin in 2 weeks - stay posted here to learn more about the red wine harvest!