An invitation to Château Troplong Mondot
An invitation to Château Troplong Mondot
Located at the highest point in Saint-Émilion, Château Troplong Mondot has always been one of our favorite Bordeaux estates for both its wine and to visit, so when we were invited by the team there for lunch and a private tour of the new wine making facilities we accepted with great pleasure. Following the 2017 acquisition by the French reinsurance company SCOR , the entire estate has been the subject of significant renovations which has resulted in a breathtaking new winery, luxurious accommodations and a glorious reincarnation of the estate’s fine dining restaurant, Les Belles Perdrix. We’re pleased to share with you our sneak preview.
Château Troplong Mondot, a Premier Grand Cru Classé etstate in-Saint-Émilion
About Château Troplong Mondot
At 110 meters above sea-level, the Troplong Mondot estate is enviably positioned, providing not only a spectacular terroir but also glorious vistas over the vineyards towards Saint-Émilion’s 12th century bell tower.
The vineyard was first established in 1700, and today spans 43 hectares (103 acres) making it one of the largest in the Saint-Émilion appellation. Within the vineyards, 25 sub-terroirs have been identified at dozens of different altitudes making the overall terroir strikingly complex. The vineyard is planted with 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. The estate produces two wines: its first wine Château Troplong Mondot, and the second wine known simply as Mondot.
Since SCOR’s acquisition of the estate in 2017, Troplong Mondot has seen significant investments including the acquisition of land from neighbors Château Bellisle Mondotte and Clos La Barde, and the bringing onboard of Aymeric de Gironde from Cos d'Estournel to manage the estate, with new winemaking consultants, but most apparent is the ambitious renovation project which has delivered something truly exquisite.
Upon our arrival, we were greeted by the estate’s two-person hospitality team - Candice who manages the winery side of things, and Nina who looks after the accommodations.
First up was a revisit of the main chateau building which we first visited back in 2019 after the reception areas had been renovated. The two living rooms, and dining rooms are still achingly beautiful with space for over 20 guests to be entertained in luxurious surroundings. The two dining rooms, provide the perfect setting for private lunches and dinners and the sitting rooms offer a very comfortable area to relax after a day of exploring Bordeaux’s vineyards. As we were touring the property, the tall windows overlooking the vines were being polished and everything was ‘just so’ in anticipation of the first guests of the summer. We then went upstairs to see the 5 suites which are beautifully furnished and offer panoramic views over the vineyards towards Saint-Émilion and verdant grounds of the property. Outside, we enjoyed the view from the terrace and revisited the stunning mediteranean inspired pool surrounded by elegant cypress trees and roses. Given the exclusive nature of the chateau accommodations, we are not permitted to share any photos of the chateau accommodations, but we can assure you that they are absolutely exquisite and one of a kind in Bordeaux, and indeed, all of France.
In addition to the main chateau building, the estate’s additional accommodations known as ‘The Keys’ offer 4 additional bedrooms in a sympathetically restored annex adjacent to the main chateau building. These rooms are certainly not as indulgent as the chateau accommodations but they are nonetheless beautifully decorated and extremely comfortable. A very quant, two-bedroomed, two-bathroom vineyard house nestled in the vines and featuring eyelevel vineyard views from one of the bathrooms completes this wonderful ensemble.
A private tour in the estate’s vintage Land Rover
The view towards the medieval village of Saint-Émilion with its 12th century bell tower.
Next up was a visit of the new wine facilities which was where things got really exciting. It was the first hot day of the year and the sun felt strong, so as we entered the new winery the change in temperature and lighting was dramatic. A pair of large doors swung open effortlessly and beckoned us into a small holding area ahead of another pair of equally large doors. As the first set of doors closed behind us, the next set opened to reveal a glass and steel bridge suspended high above the perfectly arranged French oak barrels below in what is known as the estate’s ‘cathedral cellar’, and it is immediately obvious why it unofficially goes by this name. The 12 meter/42 feet drop is accentuated by dramatic beams of vertical lighting and four elegant concrete columns which effortlessly suspend the walkway upon which you’re standing. Full disclosure: anyone sensitive to heights might feel a little uneasy!
We continued to make our way across the bridge and exited from the side through double doorways which lead to a guest reception area and a contemporary, yet rather grand, staircase servicing all floors of this extremely deep building. The beautifully lit vat room only has a few of its 50-plus stainless steel vats already installed but will be ready in time for the vinification of the 2021 vintage. We also came across a room dedicated to the engraving of personalized gifts for VIP clients.
We spent much of our visit in awe of these new facilities which strike the perfect balance between technological prowess and sustainability and offer a breath of fresh air to the traditional Bordelais winemaking scene.
“As the first set of doors closed behind us, the next set opened to reveal a glass and metal bridge suspended high above the perfectly arranged French oak barrels below”
It was then time to head to lunch at the Les Belles Perdrix, the estate’s fine dining restaurant, which has been a favorite dining destination for Bordeaux locals and visitors alike since it opened in 2012 under former owner Christine Valette. To the dismay of many loyal customers, the restaurant has been closed since December 2017 as part of the renovation project. Three years is a long time to wait but we’re pleased to report it was well worth it. Chef David Charrier, who earned the restaurant’s Michelin star during its first incarnation, remains at the helm and not only aims to reclaim its one Michelin star but is aiming even higher.
As guests enter the dining room from the winery, they encounter an unmissable jaw-dropping Tuscan-inspired view over the vineyards. Both the view, and the restaurant’s unique position, is unlike anything else in Bordeaux. It is impossible to not be impressed by the sheer beauty of the vista. On warm days, the retractable floor to ceiling windows open completely to provide a unique inside/outside dining experience, that allows guests to enjoy a sophisticated and seemingly outdoor experience while being shielded from the frequent gusts of wind which are present atop the Saint-Émilion plateau. As we settled into our seats, two enormous horses emerged from adjacent rows of vines almost as if they were welcoming us.
“As guests enter the dining room from the winery, they encounter an unmissable jaw-dropping Tuscan-inspired view over the vineyards. ”
Our dining experienced commenced with various amuse-bouches, including a delightful ceviche of maigre served in an ice-cream-like cone, served with a delightfully crisp and refreshing Sancerre which also accompanied a spectacular appetizer of veal tartare, topped with smoked eel and locally produced caviar. The veal tartare dish could have easily been the star of the show however it was followed by a delicious trio of perfectly cooked succulent lamb prepared three ways, paired with a 2004 Château Troplong Mondot, The desert was a lemon curd made with the finest lemons from Menton on the Côte d'Azur which was then followed by a series of sweet bites including a cherry shaped forêt noire, and the iconic Bordeaux sweet, the canelé - but the finest canelé we’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting.
“Over lunch you will see the estate’s powerful horses at work in the vineyards which is a wonderful experience in itself. ”
Private wine tours and tastings
Not to be misseed is a private tour and tasting of the property during which you’ll roam through the vineyards aboard an old Land Rover and see the estate’s dozen or so horses at work, followed by a vertical tasting accompanied by appetizers prepared by Chef David Charrier. For the lucky children in the party, they can enjoy their own miniature electric rideable Land Rover which will make time at Troplong Mondot perfect for all the family. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll get to meet Ulysses, Bihotz, Rosita and the other wonderful horses of Troplong Mondot who are a hugely important part of the estate.
If you would prefer a more casual dining experience, a gourmet picnic overlooking the vineyards, complete with china and linens and comfortable seating, can be arranged.
The team at The Bordeaux Concierge would be delighted to help you plan your tailor-made itinerary for 2021, including time at the exquisite Château Troplong Mondot.