Michelin Guide 2021: Bordeaux
On January 18, The Michelin Guide announced its awards for 2021 against the backdrop of a global health crisis. Controversially, Michelin decided to award (and remove) stars "according to the same criteria as always" despite restaurants being faced with unprecedented challenges and many being forced to close for months at a time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Overall, 57 restaurants in France received new stars, whether crowned for the first time or having additional stars awarded. This includes one new 3-star restaurant, two new 2-star restaurants, and 54 new 1-star restaurants. One restaurant was upgraded from 1-star to 2-stars. Additionally, two restaurants were dropped from 2-stars to 1-star, 10 restaurants lost their 2-stars, and 33 restaurants lost their 1-star.
In Bordeaux, L’Observatoire du Gabriel, a brand new gastronomic restaurant enjoying prime position in Bordeaux’s Place de la Bourse and owned by the Boüard family of Château Angélus in Saint-Emilion, was newly awarded 1-star. Dishes are created by Chef Alexandre Baumard who is also at the helm of the 1-star restaurant Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Emilion. It is quite a coup for Chef Alexandre and the team to achieve this accolade given that the restaurant was only open for three months before being forced to close due a second national lockdown.
ONA, a vegan restaurant located in Arès, west of Bordeaux near the Arcachon Bay, was also newly awarded 1-star. ONA, which stands for ‘Origine Non Animale’, meaning ‘not of animal origin’ representing its 100% plant-based and animal-free cuisine, is the first vegan restaurant to be awarded a star in France.
Les Foudres, located at Hotel Chais Monnet in Cognac, was awarded 1-star as well. This restaurant, named after the hundred-year-old barrels that surround diners in the stunning ‘chai cathedral,’ is helmed by Chef Marc Antoine Lepage.
Additionally, Bordeaux lost two of its most popular Michelin-starred restaurants in 2020. La Grande Maison (was 2-stars) , part of the Bernard Magrez group and Château de Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac (was 1-star) - both closed their doors to make way for new concepts.
In total, there are now four 2-starred restaurants and sixteen 1-starred restaurants in and around Bordeaux. There are seven additional restaurants in the area that have received a Bib-Gourmand award from Michelin, an award that designates a restaurant as serving quality food at a good value.
In 2020, Michelin launched a new Sustainability Emblem on the Michelin Guide website to symbolize excellence in sustainable gastronomy. According to the press release announcing this change, "those at the forefront with their sustainable gastronomy practices are highlighted by a new symbol, with the restaurant’s vision also outlined via a quote from the chef." 33 restaurants received a green star in 2021. In the Bordeaux area, three restaurants have this distinction. In addition to Le Prince Noir, the following restaurants received their first green star.
The Skiff Club, a 2-star restaurant located in Pyla-sur-Mer received a new green star this year. The chef, Stéphane Carrade, states that “faithful to our guidelines, which advocates "progressive terroir", as much as possible we work with the small producers of our region – local fish, vegetables, herbs, whole animals, while favoring the finest produce. I drive a 100% electric car and fetch certain supplies myself, such as vegetables grown in Biscarrosse. We plan to create a pig farm in order to recycle our green waste.”
ONA, which received its first (red) star as mentioned above, also received a green star. Chef and owner Claire Vallée explains her vision as “We work with seasonal, organic and local produce. Our green terrace, open in the summer, has 140 varieties of edible plants used in our kitchen. Our energy is renewable, and we have a compost system.”
See below for a full list of all Michelin rated restaurants in Bordeaux along with the Michelin Guide review.
2-Starred Restaurants
La Grand’Vigne
-Martillac-
“In this 18C orangery, the dishes have the taste and the colors of nature: they are the work of an inspired chef, Nicolas Masse, a master in the art of associating flavors and textures with remarkable precision to appeal to the senses. Very fine wine list, including from Château Smith Haut Lafitte.”
La Table de Pavie
-Saint-Emilion-
“In the wake of Ronan Kervarrec, Yannick Alléno now supervises this local institution. The Parisian chef has recruited a high-flying team and refocused the culinary score on southwest France, whilst remaining true to his hallmark sauces and reductions. You will of course be regaled with a magnificent selection of Saint-Émilion wines.”
Le Pressoir d’Argent - Gordon Ramsay
-Bordeaux-
“The restaurant's name comes from the Christofle lobster press – an extremely rare piece – that presides over the dining area. Gordon Ramsay has devised an appetizing menu that shows off the Aquitaine terroir and is perfectly executed by an Israeli chef. All of this is complemented by top - notch service.”
Le Skiff Club
-La Test-de-Buch-
“Le Skiff Club is like a cocoon with its attractive little dining area, decorated in the style of a yacht club. The chef, Stéphane Carrade, cooks up delicious "progressif" cuisine de terroir, inspired by South - West France, drawing out the best from fine produce.”
1-Starred Restaurants
Auberge St-Jean
-Saint Jean de Blaignac-
“A youthful, enterprising couple, both of whom boast an impressive CV, is now at the helm of this inn on the banks of the Dordogne. Definitely on the path to stardom, they have crafted an enticing menu that combines the finest local produce with influences from afar!”
Garopapilles
-Bordeaux-
“The chef woos us with unfussy, creative food that is right on cue in menus that feature 3, 4 or 5 dishes, as well as an 8-course signature menu. There is never a dull moment at table, as you tuck into market-fresh ingredients, all of which washed down with one of the vintages from the region and beyond from the stonking 500-bin wine cellar.”
La Ribaudière
-Bourg-Charente-
“This large villa flooded in light has a garden that gently slopes down to the Charente and a superb terrace. The father-son team of chefs turns out cuisine along lines that skillfully combine classical roots with more updated inspirations. Well done!”
Le Patio
-Arcachon-
“Asparagus from the Landes, Pauillac lamb, oysters from Arcachon, etc. This restaurant celebrates choice produce from Aquitaine, as well as the occasional nod to Thailand, where the chef goes whenever he can. His delicate, generous dishes are guaranteed to sate your appetite.”
Le Pavillon des Boulevards
-Bordeaux-
“A chef and sommelier have partnered up to run this restaurant on the outskirts of the city centre. They propose dishes that are always creative, playing on associations of aromas and flavours, and accompanied by good regional wines.”
Le Prince Noir
-Lormont-
“A glass and concrete cube, a view of the Pont d'Aquitaine suspension bridge: we are off to a good start! Then Vivien Durand's cuisine… the chef reinterprets French tradition in the most natural way: the flavours are dazzling, the ingredients nicely showcased. Add to that a sincere eco-friendly approach, and you have an exemplary table.”
Le Quatrième Mur - La Table d’Hôtes
-Bordeaux-
“Philippe Etchebest breaks with gourmet conventions and codes! A single table set for 12 overlooking the kitchen offers an insight into his culinary universe. Diners are invited to share a fixed, seven - course menu, devised around local, seasonal produce.”
Le Saint James
-Bordeaux-
“A designer interior bathed in light with sweeping views of the surrounding area… A fine location for a quality meal anchored in the region: Aquitaine ingredients are nicely showcased, and the dishes paired with local wines.”
Les Foudres
-Cognac-
“The Chais Monnet restaurant opens onto a room which used to house the huge hundred-year-old barrels in which cognac was aged! The new chef, Marc-Antoine Lepage, signs a menu in which his consummate skill subtly showcases regional produce, resulting in visually appetising dishes.”
L’Observatoire du Gabriel
-Bordeaux-
“A premium location depicts this establishment in the central edifice of Bordeaux’ iconic Place de la Bourse, facing the water mirror. Its exquisite 18C sitting rooms have been treated to a revamp, providing the ideal setting to sample the cuisine of chef Alexandre Baumard (Logis de la Cadène, Saint-Émilion). The stonking 600-bin wine list errs between Bordeaux and Burgundy.”
Logis de la Cadène
-Saint-Emilion-
“Nestled inside a small pedestrianised courtyard in the heart of the city, the Logis de la Cadène wins over diners with charming service that never falters, an elegant interior (exposed stonework, old parquet flooring), and, most importantly, a talented young chef, Alexandre Baumard, who puts his own spin on tradition and local specialities. Accomplished and inventive: you're in for a treat.”
l’Oiseau Bleu
-Bordeaux-
“An alumnus of Les Sources de Caudalie presides over the kitchens of this Médoc house in the neighbourhood of La Bastide. His stunningly accurate cuisine is guided by the ingredients, and he remains faithful to the history of this place – by way of proof, the hay-steamed squab and the hot soufflé still feature on the menu. Quiet terrace on the garden side.”
Ona
-Ares-
“More than a restaurant, it’s a way of life! Self-taught chef, Claire Vallée, proposes 100% vegan, organic gastronomy – hence the name, which stands for "non-animal origin" in French. The beautifully dressed plates feature a splendid array of fruit and vegetables. Greatly deserving of the attention it is garnering.”
Restaurant Lalique
-Sauternes-
“This château set in the heart of the vineyard is the stomping ground of Jérôme Schilling, a talented chef with an immaculate CV (Joël Robuchon, Thierry Marx). He delights diners with his cooking, which draws on the classics and regional specialities and is served in an unforgettable space: a luxurious dining area adorned with a leaf - form Lalique crystal chandelier, and with floor - to - ceiling windows onto the vines.”
Solena
-Bordeaux-
“The food is refreshingly pared down and creative (no more than three ingredients per recipe), simple and accessible, and concocted from the market produce available at the time. Victor Ostronzec is an ambitious chef, who even offers an ad hoc surprise menu for diners who feel like taking the plunge and leaving it all up to him.”
Tentazioni
-Bordeaux-
“She hails from Brittany, he from Italy and their restaurant in Bordeaux is irresistible. The food of staggering precision seeks to enhance first-rate ingredients (langouste, spider crab, red tuna, pigeon) and delves freely into recipes of Italian inspiration. Fully deserving of its success.”
Bib-Gourmand
Café Lavinal
-Pauillac-
“The small square of Bages has not lost its vintage cachet with a wine shop, bakery and the Café Lavinal. The latter pays homage to flavorsome local produce in wholesome bistro recipes, whose talented preparation exalts the flavors and aromas. Friendly, efficient service.”
La Réserve du Presbytère
-Montagne Saint-Emilion-
“A wine-growing village is the setting for this bistronomic eatery opposite a Romanesque church. Picture bistro tables and industrial chairs against bare stone walls. The chef cleverly concocts tasty traditional recipes with a refreshing modern twist, such as his mind-blowing verbena (from the garden) sorbet served with apricot clafouti.”
La Table de Catusseau
-Pomerol-
“Kendji Wongsodikromo, owner - chef of New Caledonian extraction, fell in love with southwest France and his wife, Nadège, whom you will meet in the dining room. The enthusiastic, young couple does not lack experience as the first taste of their market - fresh, carefully crafted dishes made with tasty, regional ingredients will confirm.”
La Table d’Inomoto
-Saint-Andre-de-Cubzac-
“Having formerly worked at the Pavillon des Boulevards, Seiji Inomoto now runs this very beguiling bistro. You can expect beautifully prepared fusion cuisine drawing on France and Japan, in which "modest" ingredients are elevated by perfect cooking and an astute sense of seasoning. The cooking is good, often original, and you won't believe the value for money. Don't delay!”
La Table du Fleuve
-Bourg-Charente-
“The brainchild of Thierry and Julien Verrat, this Charentes restaurant is distinctly bistronomic in style. The menu keeps pace with the seasons. For example, semi-preserved duck foie gras and truffles; tartare of trout with herbs and its caviar or blueberry pie and pineau des Charentes topping. On fine days, meals are served on the terrace. An aristocratic yet welcoming setting devoted to good food.”
L’Aillet
-La Teste-de-Buch-
“This chef’s cuisine manages to balance a trendy bistro vibe thanks to a definitively contemporary look with a clear commitment to sustainable agriculture. He is also a past master in the art of tradition and roasted joints, a skill we can only applaud, as we ask for more! A welcome addition to the Arcachon Bay culinary scene.”
Racines by Daniel Gallacher
-Bordeaux-
“The name Racines evokes the Scottish roots of this self - taught chef. He can be relied upon to turn out inventive and brilliant dishes that spurn conventionality, and changes his menu every week according to produce to be had at the market. The food is dependably delicious and the restaurant is always full.”