The Faces of Bordeaux

At The Bordeaux Concierge, our aim is to introduce our clients to the real Bordeaux. This includes meeting the people that make Bordeaux what it is today. As part of this effort, we bring these vibrant personalities to our audience at home through our series, The Faces of Bordeaux.

Aymeric and his English setter, Rosie ©Cécile Perrinet Lhermitte

Aymeric de Gironde
CEO, Château Troplong Mondot, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

After managing Saint-Estèphe second growth Château Cos d’Estournel for five years, Aymeric de Gironde took the helm at Château Troplong Mondot in 2017, and immediately began moving the Saint-Émilion property’s wines to a more restrained, nuanced style. He has also overseen an expansion of the property’s visitor offering, seen in its supremely elegant restaurant and rooms.

How did you get to where you are today?

I was born in a barrel! My family has been making Cognac for more than 200 years, so I grew up in the vineyards and spent my holidays working in the vines. For me, there was no other path other than having a job in wine. But in terms of my specific career path, it has all come about through meeting the right person at the right time.

I studied in Bordeaux and Spain, and got my first job in 1997 selling wines and spirits for a US-based company in New York. When I came back to France I worked for LVMH, at Hennessy and Krug. One day I met an extraordinary gentleman – Christan Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes – over a Rum Swizzle in Bermuda and he offered me a job in Bordeaux. I became a sort of right-hand man for him and learned so much, both in winemaking but also the wine business. I was then appointed CEO of Cos d’Estournel, one of the legendary estates of Bordeaux, and during my time there, I was invited by Christine Valette, the then owner of Troplong Mondot, to lunch in its newly created restaurant Les Belles Perdrix. That was the day I fell in love with Troplong. I came home that evening to my wife and told her that there was a special soul in this place and that, one day, I would be at the helm. In 2017, when the new owners bought Troplong Mondot, I was approached to lead the estate, and I immediately agreed. Not many people in this world get to fulfill their dreams, and for me, this was it.

What should visitors look for when they visit Château Troplong Mondot?

Rosie, my dog. She’s a very friendly English setter, who welcomes all our guests enthusiastically. Joke aside, visitors should look for emotions, a sense of place and a genuine sense of hospitality. More specifically, the opportunity to stay in one of the rooms at the estate, dine in our restaurant Les Belles Perdrix and really immerse yourself in the property.

We try to cater to every type of visitor. I’m sure most of The Bordeaux Concierge guests are travelling à deux, but dogs are very welcome. Kids too. Normally, visiting a vineyard with children can be hard. They don't care about wine, and become bored – and then the parents are stressed. So we decided to turn it into an opportunity. We have some mini electric Land Rovers that kids can drive around, and they love it. We give them a treasure hunt to do, and it allows the parents to focus on the wine.

Château Troplong Mondot in Saint-Emilion

What does fine wine mean to you?

A wine that expresses its place of origin, stirs deep emotions and express all its complexity over time. I find that expression of place very strongly on the Right Bank, simply because most of the estates here are smaller. Troplong Mondot is just 27 hectares. I walk half the estate every day – having a dog has forced me to – so there’s a deep understanding of every plot, almost every vine. It helps me express the terroir more genuinely, gives me the right environment for each part of the vineyard to express its pure characteristics. Then my goal is to have the least possible impact between harvesting each plot and making the wine.

What’s the biggest issue in the fine wine world right now?

Achieving true sustainabilty while continuing to make one of the world’s greatest wines. In a winery, sustainability needs to be a holistic approach. That’s why we chose to sign the agreement of Paris and also joined the IWCA – the International Wineries for Climate Action – which also adheres to a carbon-neutral approach. We’re the first French winery to join the group. I chose this path because it covers your entire activity, and forces you to have a broad perspective, looking at what's happening before you make your wine, which suppliers you work with, the weight of your bottle, how you ship your wine to your customers, everything. We dropped the weight of our bottles by 20%; 40% of our energy is renewable. Sustainability doesn’t just mean growing your grapes organically, or having a horse plough the vineyard.

What is your most treasured wine memory?

Wine has always been part of my life, so it has probably featured in all the best moments. It could be the initiation my father and grandfather gave me into drinking great wine; or tasting an 1870 Cos d’Estournel at the château; or the bottle of Krug Rosé I opened when my daughter was born 19 years ago; or the two I have since opened for my two sons. It’s hard to pick one, but definitely it would be just sharing a special bottle with friends or family (although I have tried to explain to my wife that, now I no longer work for LVMH, we can’t drink Krug quite so often…).

Horses working the vineyards at Château Troplong Mondot

What’s the one place everyone should visit when they’re in Bordeaux?

Name-checking one of the city’s museums would make me look more intellectual, but my answer is simply walking along the riverfront and taking in the extraordinary façades of the Place de la Bourse.

Where’s your favorite place to eat and drink in Bordeaux?

Le Café Gourmand in the very center of Bordeaux, just off the Place des Grands Hommes. It’s a simple bistro and burger joint and the owner, Jean Fou, is an incredible host and makes you feel totally at home. We go almost every week, on a Sunday. We always talk about going somewhere else, but then we end up there.

And what’s your favorite thing about living and working in Bordeaux?

As well as the great wines? Being close to the ocean, close to the Basque Country and not so far from the mountains…

Château Troplong Mondot, a Premier Grand Cru Classé estate situated at the highest point of the Saint-Émilion appellation, welcomes visitors 7 days a week. In addition to the winery, the property also features luxurious accommodations and the Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Belles Perdrix.

Let us introduce you to Château Troplong Mondot on your next visit to Bordeaux

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The Faces of Bordeaux - Aymeric de Gironde, CEO, Château Troplong Mondot, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion