The Faces of Bordeaux - Nicolas Masse, chef at La Grand'Vigne
The Faces of Bordeaux
At The Bordeaux Concierge, our aim is to introduce our clients to the real Bordeaux. This includes meeting the people that make Bordeaux what it is today. As part of this effort, we will bring these vibrant personalities to our audience at home through our new series, The Faces of Bordeaux.
Nicolas Masse
Chef, La Grand’Vigne
Les Sources de Caudalie
In our latest Faces of Bordeaux interview, we present to you Nicolas Masse, Chef at the 2-star Michelin restaurant La Grand’Vigne located at Les Sources de Caudalie. The restaurant is located just south of Bordeaux in the heart of Pessac-Léognan and provides a true gastronomic experience in a beautiful vineyard setting.
When did you know you wanted to become a chef?
I knew very early on what I wanted to do - I wanted to create my own culinary story and follow my passion. My very first job as Chef was in the Grand Hôtel in Saint-Jean de Luz when I was just 29 - this was an incredible experience with great memories.
What is one of your first memories of food?
My grandma’s rice pudding - baked and slightly over cooked. The whole family and anyone who had the chance to taste it will remember it. She even made it without a proper recipe!
What has your career trajectory looked like? Where did you gain your experience?
I started my career with a traineeship in the Casino de Deauville, followed by couple of seasonal jobs and then I had my first experience in a Michelin starred restaurant in London working for Andrew McLeish. This experience was a great revelation for me - the precision of the work, constantly striving for excellence and the creative dynamism were very impressive. This was a key milestone in my professional career.
Do you have any mentors that helped you along the way and had an impact on your career?
Sure! I was very lucky during my entire experience to work with kind and caring chefs who supported me during my training. For example, I still bear in mind the advice given to me by Alain Ducasse. It was only few words - but I still remember them very clearly, especially when it comes to decision making.
What did they pass on to you as a chef?
Precision, technical expertise, good product knowledge, curiosity and the importance of working as a team every day.
“I wanted to create my own culinary story and follow my passion. ”
Seasonality and fresh and local produce are spoken about a lot today. Where do you source your products? Can you share some of your main partners for these products?
The quality of each product is fundamental for all chefs. Before creating any dish, the most important thing is to get to know the person behind the ingredient you are cooking with. Artisans are truly involved in their production and they always have wonderful stories about how they have started or how they make their product. It is often the meeting of these men and women that triggers your creativity.
At Les Sources de Caudalie we are very lucky to work with vegetables and fruits grown in our own garden. We work with Rachel Laguiére from ‘Le Conservatoire du Gout’ who is a passionate soul dedicated to permaculture when growing vegetables.
This is the reason why nature and the seasons highly influence our creations La Grand’Vigne.
Can you share some of your main partners for these products?
During the asparagus season, I love getting organic white asparagus from the Domaine d’Uza, in the French region of Les Landes. The fresh goat cheese we use in our meal preparation is from Monsieur Teulé. His dairy is located 25 minutes from Les Sources de Caudalie and he makes the best fresh and refined goat cheese of the region! Our organic sourdough bread is from Pain Paulin located in the Arcachon Bay - their breads are exquisite with unique flavors and tastes.
What is the philosophy behind your cooking?
Very simple: highlight and respect each individual ingredient.
How would you describe your cuisine?
“Terre de Vignes” (meaning land of vines). Our identity and cuisine are made of the beautiful ground we are surrounded by, blended with a my personal touch and sensitivity during the experience.
Our aim is to bring the ingredients flavor out using modern, yet timeless culinary techniques such as fermentation and the concentration of taste.
“L’Oeuf en colère” (The Angry Egg)
Where does your inspiration come from?
Countries I have been to, my own curiosity, and inspiring meetings with artisans. My inspiration comes also from the environment surrounding Les Sources de Caudalie, the work of Château Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards that I can observe, its history and its biodynamic culture. And obviously, brainstorming and sharing ideas with my colleagues is fundamental in developing incredible creations.
Do you have a signature dish? If so, what is it?
I do not really like the term ‘signature dish’ because that implies it is fixed. At La Grand’Vigne we are constantly evolving and improving the dishes we serve. That said, some of my most memorable creations include “L’Oeuf en colère” (The Angry Egg) or “Promenade au potager” (A walk through the garden).
Is there a secret ingredient that you love to cook with?
Depending on the season there are some ingredients I really like to cook with. Peas in spring for example. Every morning we pick small peas from the garden when they are sweet and tender - this is the best way to enjoy them. No need to cook them, they can be eaten fresh with some olive oil and fleur de sel…this is our own green caviar!
What is your favorite meal?
I’ve been impressed by many culinary experiences for different reasons, but the one that is more memorable than others is my experience of Alain Passard cuisine. Alain Passard is a French chef and owner of the three-star restaurant L'Arpège in Paris. His food is the best in terms of purity and emotions to me.
Do you have a guilty food pleasure?
Yes, cheese! My favorite moment of the meal is when cheese is served!
La Grand’Vigne is located next to Château Smith Haut Lafitte. In your opinion, what is the perfect pairing with one of Château Smith Haut Lafitte’s wines?
I would say a sumptuous roasted langoustine with citrus and coriander oil pairing with a white wine of Château Smith Haut Lafitte. The large range of delicate aromas of Château Smith Haut Lafitte whites perfectly suits this meal.
You earned the 2nd Michelin star for La Grand’Vigne in 2015 and held on to both of them ever since. What goes in to trying to obtain a Michelin star?
Being rewarded with two Michelin stars was a true moment of happiness because it recognizes our team’s hard work and allows us to continue to improve and grow.
The most important thing to me is to question myself everyday and to keep our work aligned with our identity and needs of our clients. Feedback from our clients is the very best way to measure the consistency of our cuisine.
“Being rewarded with two Michelin stars was a true moment of happiness because it recognizes our team’s hard work and allows us to continue to improve and grow. ”
Guests are able to enjoy a cooking class with you and your team in the kitchen at La Grand’Vigne. Can you tell us more about this experience?
Cooking together at La Grand’Vigne cooking school is a true moment of sharing. We start by getting to know each other around the table and by sharing our experiences and history. We then take a walk to explore the vegetable garden in order to understand our philosophy and our way of cooking. Each class makes two courses from La Grand’Vigne menu. After cooking, we head to the professional kitchen of La Grand’Vigne to meet the entire team. Clients then enjoy lunch in the restaurant, enjoying their creations with a wine pairing especially selected by our Chef Sommelier, Aurélien Farrouil.
2020 has been a strange year for everyone. What has been the impact on you professionally and La Grand’Vigne in general?
2020 has been a very difficult year for everybody. At La Grand’Vigne we have chosen to develop our 5-step and 7-step menus instead of “à la carte”. In the beginning we created this stepped menu as a result of the uncertainty around serving meals. We decided to continue with that approach as it is a hallmark of our identity and allows our clients to travel through our culinary experience.
What is your favorite thing about Bordeaux?
Escaping to our beautiful coast, with the Bassin d’Arcachon and Cap Ferret. I love the authenticity and simplicity of the bay area with its breathtaking views. And it is of course always a great pleasure to enjoy some oysters from the bay with a local white wine!
What is the number one thing visitors to Bordeaux should see/do while they are here?
Bordeaux is a city full of heritage and culture. The Cité du Vin is a great place to visit to understand our incredible wine region.
What is one local food related item that visitors should try when visiting Bordeaux?
They should definitely taste our Cannelé. I absolutely love these.
Nestled in the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, La Grand’Vigne is a 2-star Michelin restaurant located at Les Sources de Caudalie, a luxury hotel and spa.
Let us introduce you to Château Smith Haut Lafitte on your next visit to Bordeaux
