The Faces of Cognac - Dominique Touteau, Delamain
Please join us as we introduce you to
The Faces of Cognac
At The Bordeaux Concierge, we love to share authentic experiences with our clients and one of our favorite places to do this is in the wonderful region of Cognac. This includes meeting the people that make Cognac what it is today. Through our new series, The Faces of Cognac, we bring these vibrant personalities to our audience at home and hope that one day we can introduce you in person.
Dominique Touteau, Cellar Master, Delamain
With a career at Delamain spanning 40 years, Dominique Touteau, is a central figure to the House and its achievements. In his role as Cellar Master he is tasked with the enormous responsibility of ensuring the consistency of Delamain’s cognacs across decades, of transforming the ever-changing gifts of the Grande Champagne terroir into sublime cognac, identical to those created by generations before him. A whole new chapter is yet to be written, as Dominique, in addition to his role as Cellar Master, was recently appointed as Delamain's Technical Director, managing 20 hectares of the most exquisite Grande Champagne vines, the aptly-named "Bellevigne".
In January of last year Dominique was awarded the prestigious prize "Talents du Luxe et de la Création", in recognition of his outstanding talent and contribution to the luxury industry.
Have there been moments in your career when you felt you had reached a higher understanding of cognac - your apogee - in terms of your expertise and understanding?
A Cellar Master’s career is a long and evolving journey of constant learning and discovery. I don’t believe that I have yet reached my apogee in terms of tasting. When and if that moment comes it will be bitter-sweet because it will reflect a loss of curiosity as to how much further I can develop my expertise – a curiosity which can be infinite because although today’s tasting experience may be more intense and rewarding than yesterday’s, it is almost certainly going to be less intense than the possibility of tomorrow’s experience. The immediate sensory intensity/impact of a great cognac is so fabulous that one always keeps dreaming of the next revelation.
“Take your time, hold up your glass to see the glorious color of the cognac and the way that light passes through it, smell the aromas as they gradually unfold from the glass, then take a small sip, to allow your mouth to become acquainted with the sensation and the flavors.”
You create new works of art, you also recreate old masterpieces, as well as nurturing one-off unique single cask cognacs, for example in your new Pléiade range, and different skills are needed for each. Which is the most challenging, and do you have a preference?
The role of a Cellar Master is complex. To recreate an iconic blend is in itself to create a work of art, whilst the selection of rare cognacs for our Pléiade range is the logical conclusion to a long and meticulous ageing process and accompaniment. They are equally challenging and rewarding in different ways. I’m extremely lucky that I get the choice of these fantastic challenges.
What advice would you have for someone who is tasting cognac for the very first time, how do you “teach” cognac?
Take your time, hold up your glass to see the glorious color of the cognac and the way that light passes through it, smell the aromas as they gradually unfold from the glass, then take a small sip, to allow your mouth to become acquainted with the sensation and the flavors. Now you are ready to take another sip, and let the flavors wash over your palate, mostly take your time and engage your senses and brain.
What, in your opinion, particularly sets Delamain apart from other cognac houses?
The combination of manageable size and focus on excellence means that every bottle has real human thought and touch behind it. No matter where in the world you pick up a bottle of Delamain it will have come through my hands and past my nose. Our Grande Champagne cognacs are characterized by their elegance and finesse, their unparalleled length and fruitiness.
What profession, other than your own, would you like to attempt ?
I have to admit that I have a secret hankering to work with Champagne, which is one of my passions.
What is the number one thing visitors to the area should do?
Wander along the chalky white paths through the rolling vines of Grande Champagne, and along the stretch of the River Charente between Châteauneuf-sur-Charente et Cognac. Beauty and solitude under a beautiful blue sky, available to any walker or artist. Visit the historic ruined Château de Bouteville with its sweeping views out over a massive almost Mediterranean-style forest. What are you waiting for…?!
The history of Maison Delamin can be traced back to 1759, the year when James Delamain left his native Ireland and settled in the town of Jarnac. In 1824, his grandson Henri Delamain founded Maison Delamain. Today, Delamain cultivates 20 hectares of vines in the Grande Champagne appellation. Named ‘Bellevigne’, the vines extend over three rises, embracing some of the finest Grande Champagne terroir. The vines of Bellevigne are composed of four hamlets – La Rambaudie, Montplaisir, La Sentinelle and Les Grands Champs.
For more than twenty years, Delamain has worked closely with the Bollinger family, sharing knowledge, expertise and a passion for excellence.
Visits to the estate are available by appointment.
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